Fast reliability test (5 minutes, supervised)

This is the test that determines whether you can safely trust any automatic shutoff—retrofit or otherwise. Do it while you are home and able to intervene.

1. Locate the main shutoff and confirm valve type: look for a lever handle that turns 90° (quarter-turn ball valve).
2. Clear the area: ensure you can reach the valve and you have good lighting and space to move the handle.
3. Close the valve fully: turn the lever 90° to the closed position (do not force past hard stops).
4. Re-open fully: return the lever to the fully open position.
5. Repeat once: close and open one more time to confirm repeatability.
6. Record the result: pass/borderline/fail using the decision box below.

What “controlled close” means (and why winter homes should care)

When a whole-home valve closes too abruptly, it can increase the risk of pressure shock (water hammer). A controlled close (~18 seconds) is designed to reduce abrupt line shock compared to instant shutoff behavior. Safety note: still test under supervision, and treat plumbing health (and proper mounting) as non-negotiable.

Call a plumber if… (do not DIY your way past these)

• It’s a wheel-handle multi-turn valve (commonly gate/globe style) or a butterfly valve.
• The valve leaks at the stem/packing, the body, or fittings when you exercise it.
• The valve is seized (won’t budge) or can’t complete a full open/close cycle.
• There is corrosion or mechanical damage that suggests it may fail under torque.
• You cannot access the valve safely (clearance, unsafe mechanical room conditions, or unknown plumbing condition).

If you passed: how to rely on automation responsibly (system, not gadget)

A valve robot is only one layer. For winter-away protection, treat your setup as a system:

1. Shutoff device: choose a compatible option from the EcoNet Controls collection.
2. Leak sensors: place sensors at the highest-probability leak points (mechanical room/HWT, laundry, kitchen) and expand coverage as needed.
3. Power continuity: plan for outages—no motorized shutoff can actuate without power.
4. Test cycle: perform a supervised open/close and sensor trigger test before winter travel.

Need the fitment and photo workflow? Use: DIY install checklist (Canada).

If you’re borderline: reduce risk before you “trust” the system

If the valve is stiff but it completes full travel, treat it like a “yellow light.” Your job is to reduce uncertainty before winter-away reliance:

• Exercise the valve: repeat the manual cycle periodically under supervision (do not force it past stops).
• Verify mounting rigidity: poor mounting can look like “low torque” because the bracket flexes instead of turning the valve.
• Increase detection coverage: more sensor coverage reduces time-to-detection at the highest-risk points.
• Plan power continuity: outages remove “smart” capability; a backup plan is part of winter readiness.

If you failed: the correct path is replacement/service (then automation)

If the valve fails the manual reliability test, the safest decision is to service or replace the valve first. Automation can’t “repair” a compromised valve, and forcing it can create a new leak or mechanical failure.

FAQ

Does a valve robot “fix” a stiff or failing valve?

No. If a valve cannot actuate reliably by hand, you should not rely on automation to force it. Limitation: automation cannot repair corrosion, seized mechanisms, or leaking stems. Action step: run the 5-minute manual test above; if it fails, service/replace the valve (or use an integrated replacement installed by a plumber).

Why does torque matter?

Torque is the mechanical ability to turn a valve through resistance, especially after years of inactivity. Manufacturer specs list 11 ft-lb (15 N·m) for the actuator platform. Limitation: the plumbing condition still determines success. Action step: verify the valve passes a supervised manual test before you rely on automation.

Does “controlled close (~18 seconds)” help with water hammer?

Controlled close is intended to reduce abrupt shutoff behavior compared to instant closure, which can contribute to pressure shock. Limitation: plumbing layout and existing issues can still cause hammer. Action step: test the system under supervision, and address plumbing issues with a professional if hammer is present.

Will the shutoff still work if internet goes down?

Internet loss is common during storms, which is why “local vs remote” matters. Limitation: local shutoff can still occur, but remote alerts/remote control generally require Wi-Fi/internet/app access. Action step: plan for the three failure modes (internet, Wi-Fi/router, power) and include a power continuity strategy if outages are plausible.

What if I have a wheel-handle valve?

Clamp-on retrofits are intended for lever-handle quarter-turn ball valves and are not intended for many wheel-handle multi-turn valves (commonly gate/globe style) or butterfly valves. Limitation: “universal fit” claims do not apply to non-standard valves. Action step: call a plumber to evaluate replacement options and then consider automation after the valve is upgraded.